If Ibiza is all nightclubs and Berlin is all techno basements, Sitges is the slightly smug older cousin who discovered queer beach holidays decades before the rest of us clocked in. Just 30 minutes from Barcelona (hop on the train from Passeig de Gràcia and you’re practically there before you’ve finished your Estrella), this seaside town has been flying the rainbow since the ‘70s. Artists, drag queens, lesbians, leather daddies, Sitges had them all before Grindr, before Ryanair, before hashtags.
Where to Stay
Sitges isn’t short on hotels, but they’re not all created equal. If you’re after boutique and bougie, Hotel Medium Sitges Park (lush pool, central location) is a classic. On the beach? ME Sitges Terramar gives you Ibiza-lite vibes without the airport hassle. Budget-friendly? Airbnb in the old town means whitewashed balconies and a short stumble home from the bars. Just book early, summer weekends sell out quicker than a Chappell Roan show.
Beaches: Where the Girls Go
Platja de la Bassa Rodona: The main gay beach. Flags, crowds, and a solid chance of someone blasting Kylie.
Platja dels Balmins: The lesbian favourite: mixed, topless, with “creative industry off-duty” energy.
Platja del Muerto: Nudist, slightly sketchy to get to, but iconic if you’re brave (and don’t mind rocks in awkward places).
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Read more: The Ultimate Queer Guide to Visiting Stockholm
What to Do When You’re Not Tanning
Yes, there’s culture. The Cau Ferrat Museum is a modernist fever dream, full of Picasso and El Greco. The old town is pure postcard – whitewashed streets, bougainvillaea, gelato pit stops. If you’re more about vibes than galleries, the seafront promenade at sunset is basically made for smug couple photos.
Food & Drink: Tapas Hopping 101
You’re not here for Michelin stars, you’re here to eat six mini meals in one night:
- El Cable: Anchovies + vermut = heaven.
- Nunna: Family-style and super welcoming. Go for the flank steak, sweetbreads, courgette carpaccio, and nachos.
- La Nansa: Traditional Catalan cooking. Think sitgetana rice, skate, or marinated bonito. Properly local.
- Numeric Tapes: Casual tapa-tapa vibes. Strong on meats, plus cheesecake and lemon pie if you’re sweet-toothed.
- El Castell: A romantic, cosy spot with a killer daily menu. Great for date night.
- Tito Vitto: Next-level Italian. Pizzas and pastas done right, no frills.
- Nautic Sitges: The terrace with a view. Order the ribeye, provolone, and fresh salads.
- La Macana Vallpineda: A unique terrace, perfect for groups. Known for brunch, breakfast, and a solid daily menu.
Wash it all down with cava. Lots of cava.
Nightlife: Bars, Clubs, and Holiday Crushes
Parrots Pub & Terrace: Always a scene: promenade views, cocktails in hand, and a steady flow of drag humour.
Comodin: Rough-around-the-edges, eternally busy, and famous for nightly drag.
Runway Bar Terrace: Convenient, buzzy, and right where most of the action sparkles.
From the LGBTQ+ Gossip Underground (i.e. Reddit)
Even though Sitges doesn’t have a big, dedicated lesbian scene, the town is overwhelmingly LGBTQ+ friendly. Redditors note:
Sitges is very gay-focused… but it’s friendly enough and a really nice town so whether you are gay, lesbian, bi or straight you should definitely visit.
Check out Parrots – it’s great for a nice drink and people-watching.
So you’re not likely to be stared at – rather, welcomed.
When to Visit
February: Carnival
Sitges Carnival is iconic, a riot of feathers, sequins, and unapologetic camp. The town transforms into a rolling party, with parades (the Debauchery Parade and Extermination Parade are the highlights), street performers, and locals in costumes that put Halloween to shame. It’s messy, it’s cold by Spanish standards, but it’s unmissable if you want to see Sitges at its wildest.
June: Pride
Sitges Pride is five days of pure beachfront chaos, parades, street parties, drag queens spilling out of bars, and DJ sets that last until sunrise. Unlike the corporate floats you see in big cities, this one still has that grassroots, slightly DIY vibe.
September: Bear Week
(not your week, babes), but still great weather.
May, June & September: The Sweet Spot
If you’re less about parades and more about balancing sunshine with sanity, late spring and early autumn are perfect. It will be around 25°C days, fewer tourists than peak July/August, and better prices on hotels. Beaches are busy but not sardine-packed, and you can actually snag a table at El Cable without a 45-minute wait.
Reality Check
Sitges isn’t cheap. It isn’t undiscovered. And yes, you will spot a stag do or two. But the town absorbs it all without losing its charm.
Verdict
If you’re after laid-back beaches, a bit of queer history, tapas worth the queue, and sunsets that don’t need a filter, Sitges delivers. Bring SPF and your crew.
Nonchalant x
Babs heads up Logistics and Product here at Nonchalant Magazine.
